Inside Philly’s maddest ice cream lab | Let’s Eat

Plain vanilla? That’s not on this special menu at Franklin Fountain.

Also in this edition:

— Mike Klein

If someone forwarded you this email, sign up for free here.

Franklin Fountain ice cream parlor in Old City has flipped its old-school ethos upside down. It’s offering limited-edition batches of such new-age flavors as plum, prickly pear, cherry wood, caramelized garlic toffee, and Caprese. Read on, and Beatrice Forman will let you in on this flavor freakout.

Fleur’s, the critically praised French-ish restaurant in Kensington, is closing Sunday after just seven months. Owners tell me that they are working on a plan to reconceptualize it to better suit the neighborhood.

Zach and Paige Wernick, who’ve been baking goods from their Jewish (his) and Cajun (hers) backgrounds in their apartment, open a brick-and-mortar shop this weekend in Queen Village. Hira Qureshi tells the story of Rougarou Baking, where you’ll find challah and king cake and all.

“I’ve never had a meal that made me want to cry; I have never in my life experienced something like we did tonight,” broadcast journalist Tamron Hall said in a video posted on Instagram. Hall, a former intern at WDAS radio, was in town to receive an award.

Vibrant Coffee Roasters is now charging customers 25 cents more for using disposable cups at both its Rittenhouse Square and Lombard Street locations. Beatrice Forman asks: Is this for real?

The Philadelphia suburbs had it all for our traveling band of eaters: We found ramen in Havertown, Ethiopian platters in Ardmore, and a Frankenstein-of-a-breakfast pizza in New Hope.

Bar Caviar, the Champagne specialist due to open in June at the Dwight D Hotel (256 S. 16th St.), has brought in chef Noah Gindin as partner and culinary lead. Gindin, whose background includes Portland, Ore.’s Andina and Philadelphia’s Pearl & Mary, is developing a menu centered on five caviars offered in a traditional service as well as composed dishes, plus a raw bar with oysters, stone crab claws, langoustines, sashimi, and crudo. Founders Ken and Vittoria Schutz are licensed caviar importers and merchants.

Dettera’s 17-year run in downtown Ambler will wrap on April 18, as new owners Mike Sloane and Jay Rosenthal plan an approachable Mediterranean restaurant this summer called Luna on its site. In the meantime, Dettera chef Jeffrey Power will work with Sloane and Rosenthal on Academy Grill, a luxe spot at 424 S. Bethlehem Pike in nearby Fort Washington, which was Cantina Feliz before its move into Ambler.

What happens when two of Philly’s hottest chefs collaborate on a “neighborhood restaurant”? At Pine Street Grill, critic Craig LaBan says, Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp are creating a restaurant for “everyday dining, not just splurge nights.” For the most part, he says, it works.

Bok Bar, atop South Philadelphia’s Bok Building, returns for its 11th season beginning Thursday and running through Nov. 1. This year’s season of monthly chef residencies starts with Cantina La Martina (April), and rolls into Tabachoy (May), Puyero (June), Gabriella’s Vietnam (July), Korea Taqueria (August), Rice & Sambal (September), and Darnel’s (October). Hours: 5-11 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight Friday, 2 p.m.-midnight Saturday, and 2-9 p.m. Sunday.

Parks on Tap, the popular spring/summer movable feast, opens its season today.

The Hart of Catering & Café (2101 Sansom St.) is marking its fourth anniversary by offering complimentary dinner on Thursdays in April for anyone who wants to share a meal. Business and life partners Kevin Hart and Tim Judge calling it “community night,” open to all, from 3-4:30 p.m.

Journey Arts’ next Table Sessions program (7 p.m. April 29–30 at Bartram’s Garden) will feature live music, film, and a shared meal centered on immigrant resilience in Philadelphia. Filmmaker Kristal Sotomayor leads a program including a performance by Mariposas Galácticas, a screening of the award-winning short documentary Expanding Sanctuary, a post-film conversation, and dinner by James Beard Award-winning chef Cristina Martínez of Casa Mexico Tickets ($28.52 cq) are available through Journey Arts.

Philadelphia is now home to what novel food pairing, done as an omakase?

A) sushi and coffee

B) smoked meats and pickles

C) cakes and cookies

D) martinis and oysters

Find out if you know the answer.

What’s going on with Federal Donuts? A few of the locations have closed, including that big one in South Philly that Angelo’s is taking over. — Maureen S.

After your note last month, I looked into the situation at Federal Donuts & Chicken, the homegrown eatery that started franchising two years ago. I’ve learned that the company is working on a reset after its largest franchiser began closing stores. My report — including a rundown of the open, closed, and future locations — is here.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

By submitting your written, visual, and/or audio contributions, you agree to The Inquirer’s Terms of Use, including the grant of rights in Section 10.