Three Philly restaurants earn prestigious Michelin stars; some notable snubs

Last week we asked readers what local restaurants should win a Michelin Star. Here’s how accurate you were:

Of the three restaurants that actually received a star, only Friday Saturday Sunday received a majority of their vote, with 63.3% of readers saying they’ll win one.

Her Place Supper Club (34.9%) and Provenance (37.8%) fared much better in the real awards than readers gave them credit for.

Her Place Supper Club

It’s hard to overstate the broader influence of Her Place Supper Club, with its frequently changing tasting menus, TED Talk-like course narrations, and Instagram-stoked reservation scrambles that helped launch Amanda Shulman’s star. But the James Beard-nominated chef has never lost sight of the goal of making her original 24-seat gem into one of Philly’s most exquisitely polished dining experiences, with a thoughtfully concise drink program, an ever-whimsical vibe, and hyper-seasonal menus with French, Italian, and nostalgic Jewish influences, crafted together with chef de cuisine Ana Caballero and sous chef Santina Renzi. Whether it’s a refreshing red drum crudo over chilled cucumber-honeydew gazpacho, smoky lamb merguez with eggplant and chanterelles, or delicate caramelle dumplings stuffed with sweet corn over creamy blue cheese sauce, the dishes here are a pitch-perfect collaboration of an all-female kitchen locked in sync. Cultivating that team has been essential as Shulman’s gone on to open My Loup with husband Alex Kemp and readies another project on Fitler Square. Her Place’s continued success very much reflects that Shulman has allowed it to become their place, too.

Friday Saturday Sunday

The Kimmel lobby is becoming a crush of people, photographers, and cater-waiters, handing out wine and hors d’oeuvres.

There is a lot of French being spoken in the crowd, befitting Michelin.

“I always get nervous before an awards ceremony,” said chef Marc Vetri, here with his wife and a crew of five people, including his business partner, Jeff Benjamin.

There are a lot of factors at play, but to get an estimate, let’s look at how other cities fared in 2024’s guides.

With almost two decades of guides under its belt and a population of almost 8.5 million, it’s no surprise that New York City topped the list of cities with the most starred restaurants in 2024. New York City was the first American city to get a Michelin Guide, in 2006.

In this top ten both Atlanta and Washington, D.C., serve as a better comparison to Philly. Atlanta, with about 513,000 residents, earned five one-star ratings in 2023, the first year that Michelin awarded stars there. Washington’s population was about 700,000 in 2017, the same year the Michelin Guide was introduced there and awarded 15 restaurants with star ratings. Population isn’t always a good indicator though. Houston, with 2.3 million residents, earned six stars in its first year.

City and state tourism boards partner with Michelin — the French-based tire company that has been publishing the influential dining guides for decades — as food tourism plays a growing role in travel planning.

Michelin has expanded rapidly in the United States over the last several years. Besides the American South region — covering Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Tennessee — there are guides for Texas and Colorado. Atlanta’s 2023 guide has since been rolled into the South. The Florida guide, launched in 2022, now includes Miami, Orlando, and Tampa. Internationally, it recently arrived in Qatar, New Zealand, and the Philippines.

The Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau cites an Ernst & Young study, commissioned by Michelin, showing the guide’s influence: 74% of travelers consider Michelin’s presence a decisive factor when choosing a destination; 76% say they would extend a trip to dine at a recommended restaurant; and 80% report being willing to pay more for what they view as a Michelin-level dining experience.

Awards will be presented live with TV host Java Ingram serving as emcee alongside Gwendal Poullennec, the Michelin Guide’s international director. Gregg Caren, president and CEO of the PHLCVB, will open the evening.

Lillia Callum-Penso, a reporter who covered the American South awards for the Greenville News earlier this month, said she was struck by the atmosphere onstage during the ceremony. Many of the chefs already knew one another from festivals or previous jobs. “There was a lot of conviviality among the chefs when they were called on stage,” she said. “It was kind of moving — that to me was a very telling and interesting part of the ceremony.”

Michelin may be a huge part of the foodie lexicon, but it might not be a household word everywhere. Because Michelin North America’s headquarters are in Greenville, “people in Greenville know Michelin as the tire company,” Callum-Penso said.

Philadelphia will be thrust onto the world culinary stage tonight as chefs, restaurateurs, tourism officials, sponsors, and international media gather at the Kimmel Center for the unveiling of the Michelin Guide’s expanded Northeast Cities edition. It covers restaurants in Chicago, New York, Washington, D.C., and, for the first time, Boston and Philadelphia.

The ceremony, marking a milestone for Philadelphia’s profile as a dining destination, is the city’s highest-profile appearance since 2018, when the James Beard Foundation announced that year’s finalists for its annual chef, restaurant, and media awards.

Given that five cities are involved — with two newcomers — it’s likely that more than a hundred restaurants will be honored tonight overall. The results will appear online only; there will be no published book.

A Michelin star is a coveted award among restaurants and chefs and is the most prestigious of the awards the Michelin Guide bestows. Only 259 restaurants in the United States earned a star rating in 2024. In addition to the star ratings, the Michelin Guide also awards the Bib Gourmand to recognize restaurants that are serving high-quality meals at a reasonable price and a Green Star to symbolize excellence in sustainability.

Restaurants are not nominated nor do they apply to be evaluated. Stars are awarded annually and can be lost or gained year-on-year. Michelin keeps most details of the process secret, but we know a few vague details.

Anonymous inspectors visit restaurants multiple times to evaluate the restaurant during different dining periods, different days of the week, and different seasons. Restaurants around the world are evaluated by the same inspectors, to ensure that restaurants are judged by the same standards, and those inspectors make decisions to award stars as a collective.

Dining rooms in Philly are abuzz with talk of Michelin’s impending arrival in Philadelphia — whose stars (or lack thereof) are set to be announced on Tuesday.

On a recent night, while celebrating my wedding anniversary at the elegant Friday Saturday Sunday, diners at tables on either side of mine discussed the potential of the restaurant winning a star. That same week, at the hushed, luxe soapstone counter at Provenance, where spotlights shine precisely upon the parade of twenty-some courses (which costs $300 inclusive of tax and service charge, but not beverages) placed in front of diners, Michelin was brought up by every single guest to chef Nich Bazik as he made his rounds.

“I’ve been to a lot of Michelin-starred places and they’ve been mediocre. But I think you’re going to get one,” I overheard one diner telling Bazik.