A creamy Vermont cheese with French notes
French cheese's tasty U.S. twin St.-Marcellin is one of my all-time favorite French cheeses, a stinky little aged cow's milk round with a winkled rind from the Rhône-Alpes region of France that comes in a signature terra cotta crock. It now has an American twin, thanks to Vermont Creame
St.-Marcellin is one of my all-time favorite French cheeses, a stinky little aged cow's milk round with a winkled rind from the Rhône-Alpes region of France that comes in a signature terra cotta crock.
It now has an American twin, thanks to Vermont Creamery, which already makes some of the most convincing French-style cheeses in the States (like the aged goats Cremmont and Bonnee Bouche).
St. Albans is yet another winner, named for the town where the creamery gets its non-GMO cow's milk. It comes in the familiar little crock, which is handy if you decide to warm it for a speedy fondue, as the creamery suggests.
But a well-aged St. Albans turns runny enough without the aid of heat, and I personally prefer the texture when it's still creamy enough to spread but not yet so ripe that it's turned to liquid.
At its best then, you'll get a luscious dairy wave full of mushroomy vegetal notes, a hit of salty butter for depth, and a finishing citrus tang.
- Craig LaBan
St. Albans, $9.99 all Di Bruno Bros. stores (except the Comcast Center); dibruno.com
