Breakfast is served, extra early | Let’s Eat
A singing waiter, the debate over tipping, Craig LaBan finds a fun restaurant in Fairmount, and a tomato pie shop opens near the bridge.
This week brings us a packed schedule of restaurant openings and a bumper crop of dining news. (Would you believe that El Vez, which opened back in 2002, just started a happy hour?) I also have something for you early birds in Center City: Breakfast options before 8 a.m. Read on!
Also in this edition:
Baohemian rhapsody: Meet this singing waiter.
Ban tipping?: We explain the debate.
LaBan is a fan: The new Manong is a lot of fun in Fairmount.
Hot stuff: The popular Lillo’s Tomato Pies returns for seconds.
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On his path to musical success, Dim Sum Garden waiter Riyan Pondaga serenades customers. Dana Munro visits Chinatown to share the vibes.
We are bombarded nowadays with prompts to leave gratuities — and a new survey says most people would favor an end to tipping altogether.
One part of the job that never gets old for pizzaiolo Joe Beddia is cutting batches of dough into hundreds of 440-gram portions. Beatrice Forman says that’s one way he’d start his perfect day.
How to manage your bar consumption: Some patrons are zebra-striping, alternating between alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks.
During last week’s culinary travels, we found an off-menu cheesesteak on Sansom Street, fancy chia pudding in Center City, crawfish pie on South Street, and a pistachio-rimmed cocktail in Media.
Scoops
The Windjammer in Somers Point, N.J., whose 14-year run ended last fall, will come back Memorial Day as Webster’s Tavern. Chris Webb, a 32-year veteran of P.J. Whelihan’s and the nephew of now-retired founder Bob Platzer, said he was not planning to leave the pub chain when he learned last year that the property was available. Seeking to move full time to Somers Point, Webb said he visited the restaurant three times in one day — for breakfast, lunch, and dinner — and by day’s end had a handshake deal with owners John and Kiki Tiniakos. “It’s similar to the way my uncle started, too,” Webb told me. “His first deal was on a handshake. So it just felt right.”
Kevin McWilliams, most recently chef de cuisine at Laurel and previously at Marigold Kitchen, Lacroix, Kensington Quarters, and River Twice, is now chef de cuisine at Ember & Ash in South Philadelphia. He and chef/co-owner Scott Calhoun are steering the menu into what they’re calling a more refined coastal European direction, with ideas drawing from France and Spain, specifically the Basque region.
Missing Zitner’s chocolates this Easter season? Note that the Philly company has bought a new factory in Montgomery County and plans to bring them back.
Restaurant report
Lillo’s Tomato Pies, a pizza and cheesesteak favorite of “One Bite” conductor Dave Portnoy, has gone to Gloucester City to open its second New Jersey location, and we’ve found that the lines have been massive.
Manong brings creative Filipino-American flavors and a lot of fun to Fairmount. Craig LaBan reviews Chance Anies’ follow-up to Tabachoy and says it’s both interesting and original.
Openings:
Pennsylvania Horticultural Society’s pop-up gardens at 106 Jamestown Ave. in Manayunk and at 1438 South St. are soft-open now in advance of the March 27 grand opening. Hours are on Instagram.
The Biscuit Lady, which Tara Torrence started four years ago in Roxborough before moving to Plymouth Meeting, opened a branch this week at 39 W. Gay St. in West Chester.
Moe’s Hot Chicken & Grill grand-opens March 20 at 1227 Haddonfield Berlin Rd. in Voorhees, the former Suma’s Kitchen. Owner Momin Khan will throw down an over-the-top South Asian-meets-Mexican halal menu (beyond fried chicken) to include butter chicken cheesesteaks, wings, loaded fries, a paratha roll, tacos, and chicken over rice, plus shakes, churro-style desserts, and boba lemonades.
PopUp Bagels’ first Philadelphia-area location will open March 20 at Suburban Square in Ardmore. Will our region take to the “grip, rip, and dip” phenomenon?
Rita’s will give away Italian ice water ice on March, the first day of spring, as usual. Joseph DiStefano reports that the local company is considering year-round sales.
Zaxbys, the chicken-finger specialist out of Atlanta, will open its first Pennsylvania location March 23 at 8333 Route 13 in Levittown, the former Fried Chicken & Pizza.
Terra Grill, a wood-fired American restaurant from chef Laurent Tourondel, opens March 27 at Piazza Alta (1099 Germantown Ave.), next to his Scusi Pizza.
Sekela Kitchen will be Reading Terminal Market’s first Ethiopian eatery, opening this spring with doro wat, injera, and sambusa with a build-your-own bowl-style menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Owner Marta Kebede, who grew up in the kitchen of her mother’s restaurant in Ethiopia, most recently managed Era, an Ethiopian restaurant in Brewerytown
Jezabel’s, from empanada queen Jezabel Careaga, will return to Fitler Square this spring.
P.J. Whelihan’s plans a May opening at the Village at Newtown shopping center (2920 S. Eagle Rd.) — a takeover of a shuttered Iron Hill Brewery location.
The Pelican Club will be Stephen Starr’s next Rittenhouse Square restaurant, opening this fall. He says he’s going for a jet-set vibe.
Briefly noted
Newark, Del., is hosting a restaurant week from March 19–25 with prix-fixe menus, including two-course lunches for $20 and three-course dinners for $40. Details and restaurants are here.
Media’s restaurant week will run from March 22-28 with assorted specials. Details and restaurants are here.
Two firsts:
El Vez at 13th and Sansom has launched weekday happy hour — its first in its 23 years. Running 3-5 p.m., the menu includes a new dish, birria asada fries.
The Buttery in Malvern will debut dinner service after 11 years, effective April 9. It will run daily with Neapolitan pizzas, seasonal salads and shareable plates. BYOB, though wines/beers/spirit are on the way.
❓Pop quiz
Philadelphia cream cheese has introduced a character called Phillyboy, as Kiki Aranita has found. What’s his deal?
A) He rides a dairy cow.
B) He slathers his cheesesteak roll with cream cheese.
C) He calls out, “Yippee-ai-ay-YO-YO.”
D) He wears a knockoff Wawa hoodie.
Find out if you know the answer.
Ask Mike anything
What are the best Center City breakfast spots that open before 8 a.m? Most people need to be in the office by 8:30, if not 8! — Jeff J.
Way before the era of Dunkin, Wawa, and all-hours delivery, Center City had a roster of all-night diners. They’re all gone. One recent option has been Hatch & Coop, slinging sandwiches 24/7 at 12th and Sansom Streets. (It recently paused all-night hours, but expects to resume Monday.)
Here are breakfast options before 8 a.m. weekdays, besides the ubiquitous Starbucks (some of which open as early as 4:30 a.m.). I’ve boldfaced the names of places whose menus are more extensive than grab-and-go coffees, pastries, and breakfast sandwiches.
6 a.m.
Table service
Chez Colette (Sofitel, 120 S. 17th St.)
IHOP (1320 Walnut St.)
Counter service
Foods on First (1429 Arch St.)
Good Day Deli (37 S. 20th St.)
Coco Grille (BNY Mellon Center, 1735 Market St.)
Bill’s Breakfast & Lunch (1312 Sansom St.)
Coventry Deli (2000 Market St.)
La Colombe (130 S. 19th St.)
6:30 a.m.
Table service
Lacroix at the Rittenhouse (210 W. Rittenhouse Sq.
Le Pain Quotidien (1425 Walnut St.)
Patchwork (Hyatt Centric Rittenhouse Square, 1620 Chancellor St.)
Counter service
Passero’s (834 Chestnut St.)
7 a.m.
Table service
Bluestone Lane (1701 Locust St., 2000 Walnut St., 1717 Arch St.)
Egg’s Ale (Four Points by Sheraton Philadelphia City Center, 1201 Race St.)
Dolce Italian (W Hotel, 1437 Chestnut St.)
Le Pain Quotidien (801 Walnut St.)
Red Owl Tavern (Hotel Monaco, 433 Chestnut St.)
Square 1682 (Hotel Palomar, 121 S. 17th St.)
Urban Farmer (Logan Hotel, 1850 Benjamin Franklin Parkway)
Counter/kiosk service
Cafe Square One (311 Market St., 1225 Walnut St.)
Good Karma Cafe (265 S. Broad St.)
Gran Caffè L’Aquila (1716 Chestnut St.)
Jean’s Cafe (1334 Walnut St.)
Olivier Cafe (50 S. Third St.)
Passero’s (Wanamaker Building, 100 E Penn Square)
P.S. & Co (1706 Locust St.), Wednesday-Friday
Termini Bros. (Comcast Center concourse, 1701 JFK Blvd.)
The Bread Room (834 Chestnut St.)
7:30 a.m.
Counter service
Vernick Coffee Bar (Comcast Technology Center, 1800 Arch St. — the cafe room is open for seating)
Loretta’s (410 S. Second St.)
Nook Bakery & Coffee Bar (15 S. 20th St.)
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