The reservation racket | Let’s Eat
Slurping ramen in Tokyo, Dry January highlights, and a chef’s audacious comeback in Kensington.
As Philly’s restaurant profile rises, the reservation scalpers have arrived. We have a crazy tale about one restaurant’s reaction.
Also in this edition:
Our man in Tokyo: Join Craig LaBan on a ramen tour.
Zero-proofing: A guide to Dry January drinking options.
Chef’s comeback: A review of the refined French food from George Sabatino at the new Fleur’s.
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Pssst. Wanna buy a hot table? Reservation scalpers are popping up in Philly’s online world, commandeering seats at popular restaurants. When one tried selling dinner bookings at Mawn, management fought back. Beatrice Forman will tell you the story.
💸 OpenTable has tacked on a new fee, ostensibly to target no-shows.
Philly ramen power couple Jesse Pryor and Lindsay Mariko Steigerwald of the now-shuttered Neighborhood Ramen decamped to Tokyo last year, and they’ve launched tours. On a recent trip to Japan, Craig LaBan went slurping with them.
It’s Dry January, and Hira Qureshi offers the ultimate guide to sober-curious drinking in Philadelphia — plus word of a Dry January bar crawl this weekend.
Amari and other bitters are being made in-house at more local bars than ever. Kiki Aranita explains who’s making them and what’s behind the trend.
The PLCB has a rare-whiskey lottery running this week.
Craig LaBan has been following chef George Sabatino for years, and finds that his new spot in Kensington — Fleur’s — bristles with date-night energy.
“If ever a sandwich deserved a place in the Louvre, this was it,” writes Stephanie Farr about this croque madame — one of three dishes that caught our palates.
😋 Egg tarts — those wiggly, lightly gelatinous conveyors of joy — are all over. Kiki Aranita will direct you to her favorite Portuguese pasteis de nata, flaky Chinese egg tarts, and cookie-style shortcrust egg tarts.
Scoops
El Toro, chef Edward Strojan’s taco spot at Reunion Hall in Haddon Township, will add location numero dos at 1437 E. Passyunk Ave., the former Essen Bakery. He’s aiming at early February.
River Twice’s Randy and Amanda Rucker are planning an expansion next door into the shuttered former Manatawny Still Works tasting room on Passyunk just off Tasker. They’re mum on concept and timeline.
The Juice Pod has leased the former Joe coffee space at 1845 Walnut St. for a spring opening.
Restaurant report
Crust Vegan Bakery — known for its picture-perfect pop-tarts — has merged its retail store and commercial kitchen into a new storefront in East Falls. “I wanted to create a place where people think, ‘Oh, I can get everything I need there,’” owner Meagan Benz told Beatrice Forman.
Falafel Time in the Graduate Hospital neighborhood has had an if-you-know-you-know menu since it opened in 2019. One dish — a crispy wrap stuffed with chicken shawarma, thin pickle slices, and garlic sauce — is now making the shop TikTok-famous. Hira lets you in on this now-open secret.
Kennett Square is getting an artsy restaurant and cocktail bar next to a boutique hotel. Brooke Schultz has the details on Birch Street, intended as an anchor for the block.
Bart’s Bagels, which launched in West Philadelphia and expanded to South Philadelphia, is headed to Bala Cynwyd next.
Briefly noted
Max’s Steaks, the North Philly eatery with an attached bar that got screen time a decade ago in the Creed movies, has been sold.
McGillin’s Olde Ale House, Philadelphia’s oldest tavern (1860!), is hosting a reunion for couples who met at the bar, had their first date at the bar, or got engaged there. It’s Feb. 3, starting at 5:30 p.m. The $30-per-couple ticket includes a talk about the bar’s book Cheers to McGillin’s: Philly’s Oldest Tavern, drink tickets, appetizer buffet, discounted beers, and more. Details are here.
❓Pop quiz
A national restaurant chain has opened a “classic” location in Pennsylvania, decorated with nostalgic touches. Name it.
A) Roy Rogers
B) Big Boy
C) Horn & Hardart
D) Pizza Hut
Find out if you know the answer.
Ask Mike anything
Gazzos’ Ardmore location has not been open for over a month. I tried reaching out to the Pottstown location about whether it is permanently closed, but received no response. There is no sign or message. Are you able to learn anything? — James D.
Gazzos co-owner Joe Lewis told me that the Ardmore sandwich shop, which opened last July at 2528 Haverford Rd., will return late this month (target is Jan. 28) after upgrades that will expand the menu.
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