Ogawa Sushi & Kappo

Led by young but skilled head chef Carlos Wills, the $200 omakase experience at Ogawa is top-notch, offering 23 ever-changing courses of raw and rare delicacies served in a traditional, minimalist style. This includes food cooked (like the Wagyu torched before your eyes until it glistens with fat) and otherwise (i.e. the pristinely cut sashimi plate and nigiri draped over vinegar-tanged rice). The younger sibling of a sushi and kappo mainstay in D.C., this Old City spot represents a down-to-earth Philly rebuke to the obnoxious “bromakase” cliché: relaxed, convivial and full of colorful surprises in the form of seasonal catches from Tokyo Bay.