Christine Liskowicz had some big boots to fill when she opened Porto in the South Philly corner luncheonette formerly known as Carman's Country Kitchen.

And she's done a fine job infusing this breakfast-luncher with the homey bi-ethnic spirit of her Portuguese and Polish fare, from handmade pierogi to the sauteed kale "migas" with black-eyed peas.

The catchy "Yo Cuz" sandwich, though, is an homage to the luncheonette's new clientele. Liskowicz welcomes policemen from the nearby Third District in her place - something her predecessor, the colorful Carman Luntz, refused to do.

"Yo Cuz" is how one of Liskowicz's delighted new customers would always greet her. So she honored him with a double fistful of comfort - a crisp chicken cutlet sandwiched between the puff of two bacon-cheddar waffles drizzled with jalapeño-maple yogurt butter.

It's one tasty mouthful of "Welcome to the neighborhood!"

- Craig LaBan

Yo Cuz sandwich, $9, Porto, 1301 S. 11th St., 267-928-3956.