Is New Zealand becoming the next pinot noir capital?

Pinot noir is known as the “heartbreak grape,” and not just because its wines can be achingly beautiful. It’s probably the hardest of all fine wine grapes to grow, thriving only in very narrow climate conditions that are neither too hot, nor too cool. Not much pinot noir is made in the southern hemisphere, but the most popular examples hail from the tiny South Pacific island nation of New Zealand.

Pinot noir is such an ancient grape variety (its roots trace back well over a thousand years to Burgundy) that it struggles under the demands of modern farming. Where most of the red grapes grown today yield bumper crops of thick-skinned berries that make dark and flavorful wines, pinot noir gives paltry crops of thin-skinned grapes with little natural resistance to rot or pests. They can break easily during harvest.

The wine industry’s recent global expansion has yielded new options for pinot noir devotees, as cool climate regions from around the world rise to meet the pinot noir challenge. Among these, New Zealand has proven itself to be a real contender. Surrounded by frigid ocean currents, drenched in sunshine, and sheltered from rain, regions such as Marlborough and Central Otago on the South Island are able to make charming pinot noirs at very fair prices.

This wine from Marlborough makes a perfect example. A midweight,it’s bracingly fresh in its strawberry and red cherry flavorsand designed to be enjoyed young. Most importantly, it has the subtle thread of earthy aromatics that gives pinot noir its je ne sais quoi think a savory whiff of wild mushrooms or root vegetables. It’s a perfect partner for poultry, cheeses, and charcuterie.

Marlborough, New Zealand; 13.5% ABV

PLCB Item #100048815 — $17.99 through July 5 ( regularly $19.99)

Also available at: Canal’s in Mount Ephraim ($15.99; mycanals.com), WineWorks in Marlton ($16.98; wineworksonline.com), and Total Wines in Wilmington and Claymont, Del. ($14.99; totalwine.com).