This California chardonnay tastes like a buttery, fresh-baked croissant
Decoy's limited edition chardonnay gets its buttery flavor from the oak barrels it ferments in.
On a sensory level, California chardonnay is a far more diverse category today than it was 20 years ago. The region’s premium chardonnays were heavier barrel-fermented whites that were generously seasoned with new oak, but today’s offerings are all over the white wine map. In the key $15 to $25 range, some are completely unoaked — like a pinot grigio — while most mix in oaked chardonnay for a happy medium. Still, it’s rare to find an affordable example like this one that’s still rich enough to pair with all the steakhouse classics.
Back when California was still finding its footing as a fine wine region, vintners often looked to France for inspiration. Chardonnay pioneers in places like Napa Valley and Sonoma aimed for the ripe and voluptuous style associated with France’s top-notch white Burgundies by adopting techniques such as barrel fermentation and bátonnage, which involves frequently stirring the lees to maximize the wine’s creaminess. Central to this tradition was patient maturation in not just French barrels, but in “new oak,” where up to half of the barrels are replaced yearly to infuse the wine with the distinctive nutty flavor of caramelized oak.
Decoy is a line of wines that began as the second label of Napa Valley’s legendary Duckhorn Vineyards. As such, their value line is a steakhouse staple that stays true to the richer and oakier retro style that Duckhorn’s chardonnays are known for. While this California-tier bottling isn’t as opulent as Duckhorn’s Napa Valley classics, it has enough heft on the palate to pull off flavors of juicy mango and muskmelon with a buttery oak gloss reminiscent of a fresh-baked croissant’s crunchy exterior.
Decoy “Limited” Chardonnay
Sonoma Coast, Calif.; 14.2% ABV
PLCB Item #86782 — on sale for $21.99 through May 3 (regularly $24.99)
Also available at: Moorestown Super Buy Rite in Moorestown ($18.99; moorestownbuyrite.com), Hopewell Super Buy Rite in Hopewell ($18.99; hopewellbuyrite.com), and Total Wine & More in Claymont, Del. ($16.99; totalwine.com)
