Small plates aren't the only things that roam the globe at V Street.

The whimsical and well-crafted cocktails also take their cues from famous nonalcoholic drinks around the world, then get an inventive boozy punch.

Mexican horchata meets tequila and house-fermented pineapple tepache in Cruz Control. Peppy Argentine yerba mate tea becomes über-herbaceous with Austrian pine liqueur and rosemaried simple syrup, Cynar, suave cognac and blackstrap bitters in the brilliantly balanced No Man's Land. My favorite, though, is Lokum at the Bazaar, which comes in a ceramic version of the familiar New York coffee cup for a reason: there's Turkish coffee steeped in that frothy brew, spiked with bourbon and house-made jallab, a syrupy sweet Middle Eastern drink of pomegranate, molasses, and dates touched with cardamom and rose water.

Now that's one exotic, caffeinated cocktail trip.

Bon voyage.

 
- Craig LaBan

Lokum at the Bazaar, $12, V Street, 126 S. 19th St.