"Jerky for Gentlemen" is the kind of moniker wink you'd expect from an upscale beef snack made by Marcos Espinoza, the man behind the sarcastic "Fidel Gastro" food blog.

But the latest chewy treat from Side Project Jerky, which Espinoza cofounded with graphic designer Dan Olsovsky, is no joke.

The limited edition "Cowboy" flavor is a charity collaboration with ex-Pub & Kitchen chef Jonathan Adams, who's put his Rival Bros.'s Whistle & Cuss coffee to good use, blending it with guajillo chiles for an ode to burnt ends.

Imagine redeye gravy, simmered down over a campfire into addictive beef strips, and you'll know why the charity benefiting from this jerky's sale - Deva Watson's Fresh Palates to Palettes program - is worth chewing for.

- Craig LaBan
Side Project Jerky's Cowboy, $12 for 2 ounces, at sideprojectjerky.com; the Rival Bros. truck, the Foodery Northern Liberties, Cook, and Trove General Store, Paoli.