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Exclusive: Philly’s buzziest bar is expanding | Let’s Eat

Chefs give pepper pot its due, seniors seek out tasty cheesesteaks, and we think we’ve found Philly’s ugliest fall display (apologies to the Phanatic).

Steven M. Falk / Staff Photographer

Good day, friends. Cocktail destination Almanac, which has picked up national and local accolades in its first two years, has a new location on the way, and we’ll tell you about it.

Also in this edition:

  1. Soup for you: Black chefs gather for a summit to celebrate pepper pot, the Philadelphia delicacy.

  2. Senior moment: Some retired poker buddies are on a quest to find the best cheesesteak they can find.

  3. News: Read on for word of a new restaurant in West Chester and a chef’s homecoming in Cape May.

— Mike Klein

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No bar has received the attention that’s surrounded Old City’s Almanac in its first two years. Now the team is branching out with a two-level cocktail destination near Rittenhouse Square. Read on for the exclusive.

Black chefs gathered recently at the home kitchen of Shola Olunloyo to celebrate, revive, and update pepper pot, Philadelphia’s signature soup. Don’t call it a comeback, as Craig LaBan writes.

After playing poker at a 55-plus community in Moorestown, a group of retirees decided to raise the stakes steaks. They’ve embarked on a quest to find the ultimate cheesesteak. Sarah Nicell joined them on an outing to discuss rolls and cholesterol.

Talk about wild cards: The Sprouts Farmers Market on South Broad Street wanted to create a fall display that looks like the Phillie Phanatic. But, as Beatrice Forman writes, what is got was an artistic swing and a miss.

The Michelin Guide has loomed over Philadelphia’s restaurant scene for the last year. Charmaine Runes and our data team wondered if prices had risen as a result. They compared menus before and after restaurants received accolades, and here are the findings.

Caramelle, a candy-shaped pasta, gives late-summer corn a rich, funky foil in huitlacoche and black truffle at Fiorella in the Italian Market. Kiki Aranita explains how this Italian-meets-Mexican connection works so deliciously.

Scoops

Chef John Brandt-Lee, who oversees Bar Avalon locations in Bryn Mawr and West Chester (as well as one of the funniest Instagram chef accounts around), is targeting November for the opening of Beef & Bird Public House at 30 N. Church St., the onetime firehouse that was last Slow Hand. Brandt-Lee says the approachable menu, a departure from his decades of Italian cuisine, will emphasize beef and chicken, including rotisserie chicken, sandwiches, entrees, and elaborate, family-style meat boards.

Carl Messick, chef-owner of Cape May’s Grana BYOB, will take over restaurant operations at the town’s landmark Peter Shields Inn on Oct. 7, returning to the property where he worked for 11 years before opening Grana in 2022. Messick and wife Megan plan modest upgrades while restoring its focus on high-end dining; Grana will be the more relaxed of the two. He also plans to tailor Peter Shields’ offseason business to local diners. “The goal is to remind people what Peter Shields Inn is all about,” he said.

Restaurant report

Palm Vintage, across from City Hall, is two concepts in one: an airy cafe serving espresso drinks, sandwiches, and bagels by day, and a cocktail lounge by night. Kiki Aranita finds sushi rolls and sashimi sets rivaling some of Philly’s best.

Have Philadelphia’s health inspections intensified lately? The city says no.

YouTube star Ms. Rachel sent crowds to Blended Joe Coffee Bar in Washington Township, Gloucester County, with a social media post. Owner Eric Powell didn’t even know it at first, as Sarah Nicell reports. His phone was dead.

Mel’s Italian in Belmont Hills, which rebooted earlier this year but closed soon after, is on the market. Asking price, which had been as high as $675,000, is now $549,000.

Briefly noted

How to have a perfect Philly day, according to the woman who makes a perfect latte. Beatrice Forman hangs out with Zoe Tanner (shown above), who works her magic at Loretta’s, on Head House Square.

Sorrentino Pasta & Provisions in Ambler may have closed, but Rich Sorrentino’s ravioli is still available. He’s taken the business into the wholesale realm.

A popular food truck from a Camden County nonprofit provides job training for people with disabilities. Lacey Latch explains that Three Little Birds Cafe was initially envisioned to serve primarily as a mobile advertisement for Arc of Camden County, but has evolved into something much larger.

Actor Eric Winter (The Rookie) will sign bottles of Palm Republic rum, which he cofounded, beginning at noon Saturday at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits store at 2426 Chemical Rd., Plymouth Meeting. Bottles go on sale when the store opens at 9 a.m.; aged rum is $44.99 and silver rum is $34.99, with a two-bottle limit. Attendees must purchase the rum at the store that day, and Winter will not sign other items.

Habit Burger previews its new Jenkintown-area location at Baederwood Shoppes (1621 The Fairway) with free meals to the first 200 guests at 11:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Official debut is Monday.

Standard Tap’s annual Sausage Fest is on through Oct. 4 at the Northern Liberties mainstay with 10 house-made sausages from chef Patrick Bones inspired by flavors from Portugal, China, Scotland, Thailand, Germany, France, Morocco, the Chesapeake, and Philadelphia. Order them all on one platter for $100, and you get a souvenir T-shirt.

A Taste of Britain, the Wayne tea room, marks its 35th anniversary throughout October with a $35 three-course prix fixe menu, with a cut going to the Wayne Senior Center. The menu includes a choice of salad or scone, one of several sandwiches, a toastie or frittata, and orange posset or warm gingerbread for dessert. ATOB is also discounting its full afternoon tea for $35, down from $40, Mondays through Thursdays during October.

Provenance in Society Hill hosts Chicago’s similarly Michelin-starred Esmé for a one-night collab Thursday. Among courses from chefs Nicholas Bazik and Jenner Tomaska: fresh oyster paired with white sweet potato ice cream, celery hot sauce, peanut miso, and caviar; scallop prepared with black truffle emulsion and Meyer lemon; and king crab tart. Seatings at 5:30 and 8:30 p.m., via OpenTable, are $225pp.

Conshohocken’s St. Mary & St. Mercurius Coptic Orthodox Church will host an Egyptian block party featuring homemade food, crafts, and family activities from 11 a.m.-7 p.m. this weekend at Fifth and Fayette Streets. Details are here.

Hi-Lo Taco in Washington Square West will send proceeds to benefit the Jefferson Community Health Collaborative as it marks National Taco Day from 4-9 p.m. Tuesday with $7 double-decker taco trays, half-price appetizers, and $6 house margaritas.

Kalaya in Fishtown is teaming up with London’s Michelin-starred AngloThai for a one-night collaboration dinner Oct. 12, bringing chef John Chantarasak to Kalaya to cook with chef-owner Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon. It’s $165pp plus tax and tip, booked via Resy.

Delicious City’s Hoagie Throwdown was postponed last weekend due to the severe weather. All tickets (as well as any you might order) will be honored on the new date: Oct. 25 at Other Half Brewing in Fishtown from noon-4 p.m..

❓Pop quiz

Cheesecake Factory has been going viral for a particular dish, and it’s been driving staff bonkers. What is it?

A) Cajun salmon

B) Ultimate Red Velvet Cake Cheesecake, done à la mode

C) shepherd’s pie

D) a burger the size of a watermelon

Find out if you know the answer.

Ask Mike anything

Are there any good vegetarian restaurants in the Center City area? I know many can adapt to vegetarian — but not all — and sometimes, I just want to go to a place where I don’t have to work too hard to figure out what I can eat. — Dorothy V.

There are the upscale vegan places like Vedge and Charlie Was a Sinner, as well as the more casual Bar Bombon, all in Washington Square West. For Chinese, there is Unit Su Vege near the Art Museum. My colleague Kiki Aranita enjoyed the vegetarian dishes at Meet Harbin, a new Chinese spot at 15th and Sansom that replaced Cheng Du and Su Xing House. If you’re looking for something on the quirkier side, there’s Monster Vegan in Washington Square West, which has a “horror show” theme. And how seasonal!

➡️ Readers offer additional recommendations for overall restaurants near Lantern Theater, 10th and Market Streets (“Let’s Eat,” Sept. 16), and Chinatown seems to be a popular option. Suet L. suggests EMei for Sichuan, Ting Wong for “no-frills Cantonese roast meats, rice plates, and Hong Kong noodle soups,” and Spice-C for “homey hand-drawn noodles,” while Susan H. has a soft spot for Tom’s Dim Sum.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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