Mission Taqueria, 1516 Sansom St., second floor; served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. weekends

Sam Mink at the Oyster House looked back on his years in San Francisco for inspiration to create this bright modern taqueria that replaced the Nodding Head brewpub upstairs. Mission can get loud over dinner, but the weekend brunch patrons aren’t necessarily stopping in for copious tequilas and foosball.

That means you get a civilized experience (the full bar includes margs and other cocktails) as well as tortillas made from house-ground masa, breakfast tacos, regular tacos, burritos, and the substantial chilaquiles verdes topped with two sunny-side-up eggs. Plus churros for the kids.

Substitutions are no problem; the kitchen swapped in chorizo for the bacon on the breakfast tacos (scrambled eggs, queso fresco, grilled scallion relish, hot sauce) you see here.