I wasn't even supposed to be in Nashville. But here I was, on the dance floor of a honky-tonk on Broadway, being twirled around by the man who had dressed Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash.
One thing I've learned about road trips: They never go the way you planned. All I'd wanted from Robert's Western World in downtown Nashville was a Diet Coke and a restroom break on my way to Memphis. But at the bar, Brian Wagner, marketing manager for the Ryman Auditorium ("the mother church of country music"), struck up a conversation.
"Do you know who Manuel is?" he asked. "He's famous."
Manuel, holding court at the other end of the bar, hopped off his stool and sashayed up to us, grinning like Jack Nicholson's Joker. He was a white-haired man in his 70s, wearing a Flying Burrito Brothers T-shirt beneath a brown suit with black embroidery, a kerchief tied around his neck.
"Let's dance," he said, pulling me onto the floor. I'm a Queens girl, and country-western music is hardly my forte, so the Latina in me automatically merengued to his two-step. He positioned himself behind me, swaying his hips. When the song ended, he squeezed my nose and moved on to the next girl.
I had inadvertently walked into a party. Robert's Western World had been named Nashville's No. 1 honky-tonk, and owner Jesse Lee Jones was serving free fried-bologna sandwiches, sweet-potato fries, and moon pies to celebrate. To wash them down, he was selling Pabst Blue Ribbon beers for $1 a pop. Judging by the mood of the crowd, he was selling a lot of them.
"Everybody hangs out here," Jones told me.
"It's full of love," said Riley, a waitress standing nearby.
After driving so many hours by myself, I needed some love.
My road trip from Washington to Memphis had started the previous day. I was re-creating a trip I'd taken as a 19-year-old Georgetown University student in 1995. One Saturday night, while studying for midterms, four of us piled into my friend Doug's Ford Escort and set off for Chattanooga, Tenn., where Doug had gone to boarding school. Over the next 24 hours, we toured Doug's school and the underground waterfall at Ruby Falls, downed Krystal burgers, and ate breakfast at a Waffle House.
It was fantastic, but I really wanted to go to Memphis. Elvis' Memphis. "I've reason to believe / We all will be received / In Graceland," Paul Simon sang.
Graceland would not receive us that year, because we ran out of money and time.
But now, as a travel writer, I wanted to take a road trip again and Twitter about it. I also wanted to prove I could have fun on a budget. A $500 budget, to be precise.
This time, I was going to make it all the way to Memphis.
Drive, drive, drive.
First stop: Chattanooga, again. I got there by dinnertime after filling my '91 Volkswagen Beetle with $48.44 worth of gas and driving pretty much nonstop for 10 hours, except for gas and bathroom breaks.
From the road, I called a Chattanooga real estate agency to ask about a spaceship-shaped house I wanted to see. The friendly receptionist informed me that it was closed to the public. Bummer. But I figured I could at least get a restaurant recommendation out of her. She sent me to Big River Grille and Brewing Works, where I ordered a chicken and Gorgonzola salad and a beer.
This being Tennessee, though, I was determined to find some good, affordable barbecue. I asked my waiter where I might find good barbecue the next day. I'd asked my Twitter followers for recommendations, but the only suggestion was for a chain restaurant, and I was trying to avoid chains.
Go to Sugar's, the waiter said.
He brought the check: $14.91. I felt guilty for splurging (trust me - in Tennessee, this is splurging) on a mediocre meal, only half of which I'd eaten. As my penance, I stayed at the cheapest motel on my list, a Super 8. With a AAA discount, the room was $46.89, tax and breakfast included. I dropped into bed, exhausted from the drive.
I've always been fascinated by unusual museums, so the next morning I decided to visit the International Towing and Recovery Hall of Fame and Museum. Bet you didn't know that the first twin-boom wrecker was built in Chattanooga in 1916. Admission was $8, but my AAA membership knocked off a dollar (hooray!).
Cheryl Mish, the executive director, offered to give me a tour after she finished a meeting, and she suggested I take the nearby Incline Railway to the top of Lookout Mountain in the meantime. With a 72.7 percent track grade near the top, it's advertised as the steepest passenger railway in the world. I got a round-trip ticket for $14. At the summit, I stood on the observation deck and looked out at Chattanooga, thinking it deserved its nickname: the "Scenic City."
Back on low ground, I was shocked to find a $10 parking ticket on my windshield. I'd forgotten to pay the $1 parking fee. So much for the dollar savings on the museum admission.
In the museum, Cheryl led me to a small 1970 Japanese wrecker. "He's a cute little thing, isn't he?" she asked, letting me climb inside. "He" was a good fit for me, unlike the 70-ton 1953 Holmes W70 - the "Granddaddy of Them All," as the museum dubbed it.
After my tour, I chatted with gift-shop cashier Jim Starry about my budget road trip. He grabbed some leftover Halloween candy from a jar and pressed it into my hands. "Take this," he said. "You might need it." It was touching - and typical of Tennesseans, who seemed so eager to help an outsider. Even the attendant at an Exxon station ran out of the store when she saw me struggling with the pump, staying with me until I was done and then sending me off with a "God bless you, hon."
I didn't need Jim's candy, though, after my meal at Sugar's Ribs, which came to just $10.31. I ate my juicy barbecue chicken on a deck with the restaurant's pet goats. The manager asked how I liked the okra he'd recommended. ("It's grilled, not fried, and sprinkled with kosher salt," he'd proudly told me.) It certainly tasted better than any okra I'd had. But then, I haven't had much okra.
That night, during my driving break in Nashville, Jones couldn't tell me often enough that his Robert's Western World was "all about real, traditional country-western music."
To make his point, he grabbed his belt. "This is the buckle," he said, thrusting his hips forward so suddenly that I had to step back, "of the Bible Belt." On that buckle were the face and name of country music legend Marty Robbins.
I turned back to Manuel, the costume designer. Eager to Google him later, I asked for his last name.
"I don't use my last name," he said, pointing to the business card he'd handed me. MANUEL, it read simply. (Even so, I did find him on Google, which informed me that he was also the creator of outfits for the Beatles - the famous Sgt. Pepper costumes - and the Rolling Stones.)
By the time I left Robert's, it was 11 p.m. Memphis would have to wait a few more hours. I checked into a motel ($52.05, including tax and breakfast).
My sister and I were big Elvis fans as kids. We loved his movies and his 1968 comeback TV special. Over the years, my ardor has cooled, but the King's legendary home still beckoned to me as a musical mecca.
I pulled into the Graceland parking lot around noon. To my surprise, there was a $10 fee - I hadn't budgeted for that.
In the ticket office, the cashier asked whether I had a AAA membership. "Yes," I replied, excited that I wouldn't have to pay the full $28 for the mansion tour. Trouble was, I didn't have a membership card yet, having signed up just a few days before. When the cashier insisted on seeing a card, I handed her $28 and hopped on the next bus to the mansion.
A guide let me in. To my right was a living room with white furniture and a piano. To my left was a dining room with marble floors and blue velvet curtains. I followed my audio tour through the kitchen, the TV room, and the yard, then entered a small building that housed Elvis' awards and costumes. I wondered which one Manuel had designed (later, I read that he'd created the black leather ensemble the King wore in his 1968 special).
Finally, there I was at Elvis' grave. It was bedecked with fresh flowers and recently written letters from fans. I stood there, thinking that I'd driven more than 15 hours for an hour-long tour that was sort of cheesy. But something about seeing that grave, I have to confess, was oddly moving.
Back at the ticket office, I bumped into an Australian who was spending three months driving through the United States. We exchanged cell phone numbers, and he told me to call him if I wanted to grab drinks later.
After so many hours alone in my car, there was nothing I wanted to do more than party with a charming Aussie. But I was down to $224.94. Staying in Memphis would mean spending money for an extra night in a hotel. As I drove back downtown, pondering my options, I was so distracted that I accidentally crossed into Arkansas. Well, at least I could say that my $500 took me all the way to the Natural State.
I decided to start heading back. As a former personal-finance writer, I'd learned that sometimes you have to give up pleasures when you can't afford them.
But there was one pleasure I could afford. I was still looking for that special plate of barbecue.
I tweeted for recommendations. Go to Rendezvous, a few people responded. I'd heard about this Memphis restaurant, but it sounded like too much of a tourist trap. Coletta's has good barbecue pizza, a person tweeted. But I didn't feel like pizza.
On Memphis' famous Beale Street, I ducked into the A. Schwab Dry Goods Store to buy Motrin ($1) for my aching arms, legs, and back. A. Schwab's has been around since 1876. It's filled with belts, nightgowns, samurai swords, more elephant statues than I'd seen in Africa, sweet and sassy cheese-ball mix, Halloween costumes, Santa hats, candy, Windex, and much, much more. I found the owner, Elliott Schwab, at his desk beneath a picture of his great-grandfather, the eponymous A.
Schwab is a short, bald, chubby man in his late 40s. Ask him a question, and you'll get an answer that lasts at least five minutes. I asked him about Memphis barbecue. The answer lasted at least 10 minutes.
"To me, good barbecue is the kind that is smoked and has good sauce," he explained. He opened a binder and pulled out a piece of paper that he photocopied for me. It was a hand-drawn map of his top three barbecue joints: Central BBQ, Neely's Bar-B-Que Restaurant, and Tops Bar-B-Q. Clearly, Tennesseans take their barbecue seriously.
I got to Central before 7 p.m., but the line was already out the door. I ordered the pork platter with macaroni and cheese and green beans for $7.99. It was tasty, though I can't say it was the best barbecue I've ever had. But it would certainly hold me over until the next day.
"Want to have lunch?" Andrea Ludden asked as soon as I walked into the Salt and Pepper Shaker Museum in Gatlinburg, Tenn.
I was starving. I'd overslept and missed the free breakfast at my Knoxville Days Inn ($47.93, including tax).
I worried that Ludden and her father, Rolf, would choose an expensive restaurant, but they took me to their Rotary Club meeting, where I dined on turkey, potatoes, and vegetables with the town librarian and several innkeepers, real estate brokers, and chapel owners (Gatlinburg is second only to Las Vegas as a wedding destination). They didn't seem to mind that I was crashing their lunch, but when the collection basket was passed around (just like church), I dropped in $10.
At the museum, which sits on a hill near the entrance to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, I learned its story.
About 25 years ago, Ludden's mother became fascinated with salt and pepper shakers, eventually collecting 2,000. Then, seven years ago, tired of the clutter in the house, Rolf Ludden proposed opening a museum. It now houses more than 20,000 shakers of all shapes: dogs, cats, fruit, frogs, presidents, nuns, trains, planes, cars, you name it. They're made of wood, plastic, silver, and gold.
Ludden pointed to two little robots. "You can wind them up, and they walk up and down the table," she said excitedly.
As I browsed through the gift shop (I opted not to buy anything, hoarding my money for gas), I wondered how a family from Argentina (Rolf grew up in Patagonia) had ended up in a remote town in Tennessee.
"You walk around here, and you see happy faces. It's contagious," Rolf said, leaning against the counter. "You walk in D.C., and you see some sad faces."
Alas, it was time for me to return to the city of sad faces.
I hit the road about 2 p.m., a little sorry to be leaving a state so full of love. But while I had the freedom of the road, I didn't have the freedom of the wallet.
I pulled into Washington 10 hours later and tallied up my expenses. I had $46.98 left, $10 of which I would have to mail back to Tennessee to pay for the parking ticket.
What could I do with the remaining $36.98?
How about a massage? Even 15 minutes would be worth every penny.
And then some.
Chattanooga, Tenn., is about 600 miles from Washington, and Nashville is 134 miles from Chattanooga.
Places to stay
Super 8 Chattanooga
7024 McCutcheon Rd.
Features an indoor pool and free continental breakfast. Rooms start at $41.99 on weeknights.
110 Maplewood Trace, Nashville
Seasonal outdoor pool and free continental breakfast. Rooms start at $42.50.
9240 Parkwest Blvd.
Seasonal outdoor pool and free continental breakfast. Pets are welcome. Rooms start at $38.21.
Places to eat
Big River Grille
and Brewing Works
222 Broad St., Chattanooga
Next to the Tennessee Aquarium, this downtown restaurant offers a wide selection of entrees, burgers, salads, and pizza. It also specializes in ales and lagers. Dinner entrees start at $10.50.
2450 15th Ave., Chattanooga
Perched on a hill, so diners can eat their barbecue outside while watching the sun set over Chattanooga. A half-slab of ribs is $10.50; full is $20.50. A half-chicken is $5.50; whole is $10.75.
2249 Central Ave., Memphis
Plates, which come with bread and two sides, start at $7.99. A half-slab of ribs is $13.99; full slab is $18.75.
Things to see
International Towing and Recovery Hall of Fame and Museum
3315 Broad St., Chattanooga
Learn the history of the tow-truck industry and see antique trucks. Admission is $8, seniors $7, children 6 to 18 $4.
Lookout Mountain Incline Railway
3917 Saint Elmo Ave., Chattanooga
Ride the world's steepest passenger railway up to Lookout Mountain, overlooking Chattanooga Valley. A round-trip adult ticket is $14; children 3-12, $7.
Robert's Western World
416 Broadway, Nashville
Listen to live music at this honky-tonk, next to the Nashville Convention Center and the Ryman Auditorium. Deals include the Recession Special: a Pabst Blue Ribbon beer, fried-bologna sandwich and moon pie or GooGoo Cluster for $5.
3765 Elvis Presley Blvd., Memphis
Open daily 10 a.m.-4 p.m. (closed Tuesdays, December through February)
Tour the house Elvis Presley bought at age 22. Includes an "Elvis in Hollywood" exhibit with memorabilia from his movie career. The Elvis Presley Car Museum includes new special displays. Adult admission to tour the mansion and grounds is $28. The platinum tour, which includes the Automobile Museum and the Hollywood Exhibit, is $33 for adults. An adult entourage VIP tour, which comes with a special all-day ticket, front-of-the-line access to the mansion, and access to a special VIP-only exhibit in the mansion, is $69. Some prices are scheduled to increase next year.
A. Schwab Dry Goods Store
163 Beale St., Memphis
Established in 1876, this family-owned store is the only remaining original business on Memphis' famed Beale Street. A balcony between two floors of shopping houses a small museum about the family and the street.
Tennessee Department of Tourist Development
- Nancy Trejos