Drink
The ancient wines of Greece often get overlooked due to lack of exposure and the tongue-twisting names of the historic grapes. Xinomavro? Moschofilero? I may need a few shots of ouzo before I start saying those varieties correctly. But I immediately get a craving for one of these regionally-appropriate wines when I tuck into a plate of grilled fish and grape leaves, or an earthy cinnamon-scented game stew like those being served at Kanella.
The ancient wines of Greece often get overlooked due to lack of exposure and the tongue-twisting names of the historic grapes. Xinomavro? Moschofilero? I may need a few shots of ouzo before I start saying those varieties correctly. But I immediately get a craving for one of these regionally-appropriate wines when I tuck into a plate of grilled fish and grape leaves, or an earthy cinnamon-scented game stew like those being served at Kanella.
Among the best, most available Greek producers is Boutari, which crafts a bright Moschofilero ($12.99) that has the perfect citrusy crispness to compliment seafood. For those goat and rabbit stews, Xinomavro (which means "acid black") is the grape used in the Naoussa appellation reds that match so well, with a good tannic tartness behind the rich cherry and chocolate flavors.
Boutari's Naoussa and Moschofilero are widely available in Pennsylvania wine stores.
- Craig LaBan
