A tasty 2016 summer season in New Jersey and Delaware
Where there's smoke, there's usually fire. But it also means summer kitchens are heating up for the season's rush up and down the coast.
Where there’s smoke, there’s usually fire. But it also means summer kitchens are heating up for the season’s rush up and down the coast.
In the case of Chesapeake & Maine, (316 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 302-226-3600; dogfish.com), Dogfish Head’s hot new seafood restaurant in Rehoboth Beach, there’s smoke bred right into some curious raw oysters with a special tea. They’re potently flavored and appropriately named “Smoke on the Water.” And they’re just the latest clever draw to the beer-centric juggernaut of Sam Calagione’s ever-growing Dogfish Head empire, which a couple of years ago also added an inn.
With a complete menu built around some ambitious seafood inspired by both the Chesapeake Bay and the state of Maine (which inspired the brewery's name), C&M is sure to be one restaurant that's frequently named this summer - if for nothing else than the creative brewery's fanatical fan base. (They even brewed a beer from seawater to go with those oysters.)
But a number of exciting new projects are popping up all along the region's beach towns, from Delaware north to Long Beach Island, with many of them targeting a Memorial Day opening. Moving from south to north, here are just a few highlights:
Also in Delaware, Heirloom (212 Savannah Rd., Lewes, 302-313-4065; heirloomdelaware.com) is open and booking-up for tables in the charming confines of an 1899 white clapboard home. It was converted around the new year by owner Meghan Lee, a Talula's Garden alum and former Sovana Bistro manager. She hired chef Jordan Miller (ex-Black Eyed Susans on LBI), who's turning out a farm-driven modern American menu ranging from sweet pea agnolotti with favas, mushroom "bacon," and cauliflower-cashew cream to rabbit roulade and Jersey scallops with ramp pea stew.
"Small plates" is the theme of two of the newest entries to Cape May's dining scene. The Iron Pier Craft House (429 Beach Drive, Cape May, 609-884-1925; Facebook) is hoping to stop the revolving door of restaurants (M'Ocean, Room 429) that have occupied the second floor over Cabanas with its spectacular ocean vistas. "Upscale bar food" is on the menu with Kobe sliders, cheese curds, and a crab cake with Mexican street corn salad. But a craft beer lineup and Osaka-style sushi from Harry Setiyaki (a vet of Morimoto and Table 31) may be its secret weapon. Sushi with a view.
Meanwhile, a highly ambitious 15-course tasting menu of eclectic little plates, from kale-sausage soup shooters to ramen with duck confit, will be the draw to Shamone (421 Washington St., Cape May, 609-884-6088; kararestaurantgroup.com), which will be taking one seating a night in the former Pano space on the Washington Street Mall. The Karapanagiotis brothers, who also own the classic breakfast haunt George’s Place, pitched their high-end concept on CNBC’s Restaurant Startup (and just fell short). But chef-brother Peter K, who did time at both Buddakan and Brasserie Perrier, exudes confidence: “We’re already booking up.”
A couple of casual concepts are hoping to make their mark in Margate. You can be sure the Kibitz Room (9315 Amherst Ave., Margate, 609-823-8790; greatpastrami.com), will at least tip some scales with its overstuffed deli sandwiches. It will replace the Juniors Seafood Shack space with the same menu (plus full table service) that has made its Cherry Hill location a hit.
Meanwhile, the curiosity that is the Margate Burger & Food Truck (7903 Ventnor Ave., 609-350-6525; Facebook), a bright-yellow building that’s painted to look like a giant food truck, has finally opened after a year of work, serving (you guessed it) burgers and shakes. But it includes a Latin twist. Chef Juan Herrera is handmaking Colombian-style empanadas, homemade salsas, and tacos, too.
Atlantic City is going big with some of its projects. After 119 years in business, A.C.’s classic seafooder Dock’s Oyster House (2405 Atlantic Ave, (609) 345-0092; docksoysterhouse.com) is actually tripling in size, expanding the bar and adding private dining with an early June debut in sight.
“Fourth of July” is the target for Little Water Distillery (807 Baltic Ave., Atlantic City; Facebook), which will join Jersey’s burgeoning craft-distilling movement with rums made in a Bungalow Park warehouse that used to be known as the Tumble Inn. It will be the state’s second biggest distillery and open for tours and tastings.
One of the Shore’s busiest hubs of new activity, however, has broken a long post-Sandy quiet spell on Long Beach Island. The Local Market & Kitchen (604 Central Ave., Ship Bottom, 609-342-0061; Facebook) has given a casual creative outlet for the owners of high-end Raimondo’s, with a prepared-foods market featuring double-decker sandwiches (like the curiously named Sloppy Joe), fresh juices, coffee, and an al fresco raw bar planned for outside.
In Barnegat Light, the Arlington's Sabarese brothers have done a complete rehab on Rick's American Cafe, transforming the iconic music venue into Daymark (404 Broadway, Barnegat Light, 609-538-6462), a modern seafood concept serving crudo, short-rib-stuffed lobster surf-'n'-turf, as well as more live music. The owners of old-time Allen's Clam Bar in New Gretna have opened a shiny new LBI outlet called Crabby Paddy's in Ship Bottom (1415 Long Beach Blvd., 609-342-1506; crabbypaddys.com).
Meanwhile, chef-operator Greg Mann, who also owns Yellowfin, has converted his Cafe Aletta into the not-too-creatively named 414, a seafood-and-chop house (414 Long Beach Blvd., Surf City, 609-467-7436; 414lbi.com). Expect some big prime-grade chops and local seafood at upscale prices coming off 414's new high-powered infrared broiler. It cooks at 900 degrees, so if you see smoke, that just means dinner is ready.
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